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| Gunsmithing If you're the kind of person who likes to do things yourself, this is the place for you. |
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Have you considered just buying a barrel that's already threaded and have that installed? Sell the one you have and it may be work out financially.
From what I remember about AR barrels, headspacing them is a matter of applying the correct torque to the locking nut. Vince
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www.bloomautomatic.com - Golf Ball Launchers for AR-15, SKS, FAL, and many others www.bloomautomatic.com/lbsc - Long Branch Sportsman's Club, Long Branch, PA |
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You ever look at arfcom, there is a guy over there that rents a threading kit for AKs. I'm not 100% sure but I think he also has one for ARs.
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This outfit does good work http://www.adcofirearms.com/ and they are just outside of Toledo, OH.
I can also recommend from firsthand experience Randall Rausch out in California. Even though he's on the left coast, turn-around time is quick and the work is exceptional. http://ar15barrels.com/ Here is some work Randall did for me. http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7t3ct/r_rausch_ar_work.htm
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Tony 412.310.7838 http://www.fireinstitute.org "... there's trained and untrained" (Denzel Washington -- Man on Fire) |
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Threading an AR15 barrel is easily done by most local gunsmiths. I've used Dale Schreckengost in Dayton, PA years back and he did excellent work. It should cost you $50 or less.
Otherwise you have some real pros nearby as well: http://www.egw-guns.com/ AR's barrels are headpaced already. You just wind them in. All you need is a go no-go gauge at the most. Do you think you have a headpace issue? |
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No, but I though that was part of installing a barrel. I do not even have the no-go guages. If its that easy though...
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Why do you want to take the barrel off? You don't need to do that to get the barrel threaded. Do you have another barrel or a replacement. I wasn't sure from your post.
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I do not have another barrel. Some places have a manual threader, some have a lathe. Those with a lathe require the removal of the barrel.
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It's not a hard thing to change AR barrels, but you need some specialized tools and knowledge (all found in the link). I'd just check local first and then ship the upper through the mail to EGW (or whoever has the least backlog).
http://www.ar15.com |
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if you just need it threaded for a flashhider, the home threading kit should be ok, this usually requires no barrel removal.
if you ever want it threaded for use with a suppressor, ALWAYS get it professionally threaded on a lathe, and make sure its threaded concentric to the bore, not the actual outside of the barrel....this is to prevent baffle strikes, since the outside of the barrel may not be concentric to the bore itself:-) as per headspacing, no need to remove the barrel, the torque of the barrel nut has nothing to do with the headspace, as the barrel only goes into the upper to a set distance due to design of the barrel extension lip. The bolt goes into the barrel extension and turns to lock, rear of lugs against extension, front of lugs against bolt face (or stands off a tiny bit actually) and you must remove the ejector and extractor to properly headspace check with a go/no go and a field gauge.
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Flectere si nequeo Superos, Acheronta movebo." —Virgil "Tact is for people not witty enough to use sarcasm" |
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