Transfer Punches v.s Roll Pin Punches

[ckellyme3]

I have been eyeing up a nice set of roll pin punches and roll pin starter punches on brownelles since running into some issues lately damaging smaller roll pins in smaller pistols and buying a Wilson Combat lower parts kit and installing the kit in a lower. Wilson roll pins were the tightest fitting ever, which is not necessarily a bad thing just a PITA to install without proper tools. Ended up finding these at harbor freight last night and figured what the hell.

Picked up a set of these Transfer Punches - http://www.harborfreight.com/28-piec...-set-3577.html

It seems these will suffice for actual roll pin punches to me. If the cone is properly sized for the roll pin it should just hold it centered and be able to drive it clean without marring? At least this is my guess, anyone who knows better please correct me if I am wrong.

As well as this Hollow Punch set - http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece...-set-3838.html

These are a further stretch, I bought these with the intention to act as roll pin starter punches. I am thinking they should work although I may have to tape or fill and tape the holes that would allow material to come out when using them to drive holes in materials. Just to be clear I never plan to actually use them to drive holes in any kind of material, just to hold roll pins while i start to drive the inside of there holes.

Looking for some of the more experienced members to shed some light here, especially on the hollow punch set and how I want to use it. I am more of a weekend warrior when it comes to gunsmithing and just want to be sure I wont cause more damage then I already am using regular punches.

Thanks.

[Gunsnwater]

You bought punches to transfer the hole. You take a part with a hole stick the punch in the hole onto the thing that needs a hole in the same spot. Hit the punch and you have a punch mark for drilling the new hole. They are made for precision in the fit to the hole and hard pointy center for marking.
Roll pin punches have a round half ball to keep the roll pin from mashing and a slightly less diameter body so they don't stick in the hole when driving the pin out. Crack that aluminum frame and you'll wish you spent the money on the right tool.

[Gunsnwater]

Did you read the discription of the hollow punches? What would you use them for on a gun? Think cookie cutter.

[normanvin]

Did you read the discription of the hollow punches? What would you use them for on a gun? Think cookie cutter.

Also known as a hole punch.

[abner13]

Transfer punches will work for the larger pins , but most sets I've seen , the 1/8" and smaller punches have a full point , not a shoulder like roll pin punches. Found a nice set of roll pin punches on Ebay.

[Gunplummer]

What you are probably using are "Spring" pins. These pins have a single wall with one slit. These pins are designed to expand and not work loose, so will be hard to start. A roll pin is as it sounds, a rolled up piece of sheet metal. The roll pin is way stronger than either a spring or solid pin. I have always used a flat bottom punch to drive spring pins. If you have a punch that expands the pin, you are making the job worse.

[ckellyme3]

Did you read the discription of the hollow punches? What would you use them for on a gun? Think cookie cutter.

Did you read all of my post? I explained how I would use them on a gun. I didn't start this thread for this shit.

[ckellyme3]

Transfer punches will work for the larger pins , but most sets I've seen , the 1/8" and smaller punches have a full point , not a shoulder like roll pin punches. Found a nice set of roll pin punches on Ebay.

Ahh thank you for the response. I just checked and indeed the smaller transfer punches do not have a shoulder. I will probably just end up buying some real roll pin punches and roll pin starter punches.

[ckellyme3]

What you are probably using are "Spring" pins. These pins have a single wall with one slit. These pins are designed to expand and not work loose, so will be hard to start. A roll pin is as it sounds, a rolled up piece of sheet metal. The roll pin is way stronger than either a spring or solid pin. I have always used a flat bottom punch to drive spring pins. If you have a punch that expands the pin, you are making the job worse.

The technical term very well could be "spring pin", but I have always heard of them referred to as roll pins but I do see the difference between the two. The problem I have been having lately is with very tight spring pins. I have looked into a solution for the issue and have found people use both "roll pin starter punches" which are basically flat bottom punches with a hole drilled out of the bottom to hold the "spring pin" so you can easily start the drift.

I have been having issues lately with various small "spring pins" getting all bitched up at the ends from drifting them with regular flat bottom punches. The idea I had about the "transfer punches" was the fact that the small cone tip would be just wide enough to hold the "spring pin" centered while the shoulders of the "spring pin" only contact the flat part of the punch during the drifting process. But as the other member pointed out the very small ones have no shoulder and I will indeed end up making the process worse and possibly ruin the pin, or crack whatever I am drifting the pin into.

[Gunsnwater]

Did you read all of my post? I explained how I would use them on a gun. I didn't start this thread for this shit.

I did. I just don't think that will work
These will http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...e-_-IR-_-59979
Used to get pin started then switch to roll pin punch to finish. I'm trying to help you not wreck you stuff maybe you could leave off the last bit? I ain't the enemy.