Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomcat088
CDI, I'm finding your posts interesting. I've seen a bedding job done as you're explaining, but only one. The rifle shot fine, and just as well as any other bedding job I've seen, so I'm not knocking the method. I still don't quite understand the "reasoning" behind it. I'm with Lycanthrope, I don't see how the action can twist independently of the action if it's got action screws attaching it to the stock, and/or passing through pillars.
It kind of seems to me like only bedding the back of the lug defeats the whole purpose. The lug is still free to shift, move, and twist. When you remove the action from the stock, it would be easy to get it not in quite the exact same position as you did before. It also seems to me like this could be a bit stressful on the bedding and stock, and it'll break. The action kind of gets a "running start" before it hits something. It's like getting kicked by a horse that gets to extend it's legs all the way, instead of when you're right against it's flank and it can't get as much velocity and momentum. You can full bed an action into a stock stress free, it just has to be done properly. You can't just use the normal action screws to do it either. I'm in full agreement that they can be done improperly and put stress on the receiver. Done properly though, I don't see why they induce stress on the action, and don't make for a much more repeatable fit in the stock.
I am also in full agreement that some other release agent should be use besides vegetable oil, or something that is really running. Something that is a bit more on the paste/gel consistency usually works better.
I agree with CDI on what you should use for a release agent. I've never used some of the things you mention, but I guess for a do it yourself job, they would probably work.
Ummmm, the last paragraph of your post confused the heck out of me. I'm not sure I understand what you mean about full expoxying the barrel into the gun. As far as I'm concerned, the barrel is a part of the "gun" (rifle). I'm not sure if you meant fully epoxy the barrel to the stock, or what. That's kind of what I get from the post because later you mention not wanting the stock to be fragile. If that's the case, then what you are talking about is a COMPLETELY different animal, and I would NOT recommend that to the OP. Typically, stocks are more than strong enough to hold up to conditions that they'd be subjected to in hunting conditions. IF you need something stronger, buy a better stock like a McMillan or Manners. I mean you can park a truck on top of a rifle that's bedded into the action and it won't break. There is NO reason to take the approach that you're talking about, and make that a "permanent" kind of setup.
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I can explain it in more detail if you like? It was how I was taught at gunsmithing school(colorado school of trades) when I went, and I would guess is still taught there.
I'm not talking about the stock and rifle being permanent. That's why you use something on the metal parts before placing them in the epoxy to unstick them later on.
And Pam, criscoe, etc works great for a DIY solution. Paste wax is ideal, but why go out and buy a tub specially for one project if you have something else around that you can use?
I disagree with the action "twisting" and even if it did, by the time it does, the bullet is already out of the barrel by then.
February 15th, 2012
Re: Filling a recoil lug.
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