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Old December 16th, 2006
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Default Re: 2A Enfield

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Originally Posted by Willtallica View Post
LOL

No way, I had to. Spray nozzles clogged up, so I have to wait for my new ones to get here before I can finish it up.

You painted the metal?
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old December 16th, 2006
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Default Re: 2A Enfield

Yeah, but with this: http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sto...UMA-HYDE%7e+II
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Old December 20th, 2006
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Default Re: 2A Enfield

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Originally Posted by Willtallica View Post
...

Little something that's really bothering me. My 2A is stamped 1964, and the sight goes upto 200. Something sound wrong?

...
Not so far. The "200" probably means 2000. Is 100m marked "10", 200m="20" and so forth? Eastern european military sights are marked this way.

As I understand it, one of the differences between the 2A and the 2A1 is the rear sight graduation; 2A is the older model, the rear sight is calibrated to 2km (2000m), the 2A1 is a more realistic 800m

Model.........M
2A............2000
2A1...........800

From Wilkipedia (yeah, I know):
From 1965-1975 (when production is believed to have been discontinued), the sights were changed from 2000 m to 800 m, and the rifle re-designated "Rifle 7.62mm 2A1".
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Old December 20th, 2006
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Talking Re: 2A Enfield

that rifle will look beautiful once the wood is finished!!!
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Old December 24th, 2006
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Default Re: 2A Enfield

Yesterday, minutes before I had to get ready for work I finally turned, and tightened the last screw completing my two month long project.

Here are some pictures -











It's a very long rifle, so taking a good picture without sun light, and with my stupid space age camera really, really sucks. The manual override on it is as technical to the extreme as of knowing the answers to complex mathematical equations right off the top of your head.

Well I guess it looks pretty good, few dings, but it's my first, and I'm on first base now at least when it comes to restoring surplus rifles. Everything look great, feels great to me.

Something I need to know!: do I need to have this rifle inspected by a gunsmith before I fire it *(until I get any confirmation I will not considering firing it)? Also how much of a kick will a .308NATO round throw at me?
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Old December 24th, 2006
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Default Re: 2A Enfield

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Originally Posted by Willtallica View Post
Something I need to know!: do I need to have this rifle inspected by a gunsmith before I fire it *(until I get any confirmation I will not considering firing it)? Also how much of a kick will a .308NATO round throw at me?
Looks good, 7.62x51mm NATO/.308 cal. is not too terribly bad, just wear a nice thick shirt/coat the first time you shoot it to help soak up the recoil, the Enfield looks like a nice heavy rifle and that should also help take up the recoil.

Make sure your position is solid and don't try to fight the recoil, let your whole body move with the rifle, this is called follow through. If you try to manhandle the recoil it will beat you up more.

As for the gunsmith...yeah you should probally have the head spacing checked.
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Old December 24th, 2006
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Default Re: 2A Enfield

If the head space is absolutely the only issue, wonderful! As to what you're saying about the recoil, I completely understand. Reminds of taking a punch to the shoulder.
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Old December 24th, 2006
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Default Re: 2A Enfield

Head space should definatley be checked, I'm assuming you checked the bore out before purchase, not being all that familiar with the Enfield I would suggest that if your taking it to a smith that you have him check the whole thing.
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Old December 24th, 2006
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Default Re: 2A Enfield

Quote:
Originally Posted by Willtallica View Post
...
Here are some pictures -
...
Will, that is simply beautiful. If you're pondering gunsmithing, you're off to a good start. Maybe I should drop off my 1968 2A1 for your ministrations. Seriously, I've been in the business over 20 years, so I know good work when I see it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Willtallica View Post
do I need to have this rifle inspected by a gunsmith before I fire it ...?
Headspace (explanation). Easy to check, but there's a right way, and there's every other way. First, you'll need a headspace gauge (one source). Yes, they're on ebay, and you can find them online. They come in several varieties: no-go, go & field. Go & no-go check the minimum & maximum chamber dimensions. Field is the absolute maximum chamber dimension that the gun can safely fire.

There's a lot to cover on this topic, so for brevity I'll limit it to your application on this rifle alone. First, .308 Winchester and 7.62mmx51 (AKA 7.62mm NATO) aren't the same cartridge (details). The 2As' chamber will be loose since it's a military rifle.

Procedure:
  1. Safety-make sure you're rifle's unloaded. Obvious, but necessary. Make sure the bore isn't obstructed, in case the rifle passes the headspace test.
  2. To check, you'll need to pull the bolt and inspect the chamber for any foreign objects, dirt or rust particularly on the shoulder of the chamber. Clean it thoroughly, too. I often use a wire 7.62x51 chamber brush to accelerate the cleaning process. Also inspect the bolt face for dirt and contamination. Inspect headspace gauge for foreign objects, dirt or rust especially if it's been in storage any length of time. The headspace gauge is just that -- a gauge. It's a calibrated standard, so it must be cared for judiciously. I keep mine submerged in oil.
  3. Next, remove the extractor from the bolt by removing the extractor screw on the bolt lug. Note that the spring is the old "V" style spring. If you lose or break it, it's the same spring & screw found on the No.4 rifle, not the No. Mk III. If you have a tingoshit experience (think of the sound sequence of an escaping, small irreplaceable spring...), they can be tricky to find. I found a source in Canada, the shipping cost more than the spring.
  4. Gently slide the gauge into the chamber, and reinstall the bolt. GENTLY attempt to "chamber" the gauge. Use very little force, the less the better.

What to look for:

As the bolt handle goes down into battery, it should provide a small amount of resistance. Note that it's possible - even easy - to force it into battery. Don't force it, you'll only damage something. This is how the rifle and gauge tell you the gauge is too big, and the chamber's right. Pull out the gauge, reassemble the rifle and blast away.

If the bolt handle closes without any perceptible resistance, the chamber is larger than SAAMI 308 FIELD limits.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Willtallica View Post
Also how much of a kick will a .308NATO round throw at me?
No one told me they kicked, so I fired mine for hours without a hitch. I got a pleasant surprise as I shot the center out of a 50Y target (the 100s were all in use that day). A friend swapped his .303 British No1 MkIII with me on the firing line, he complained that my 2A kicked more. Whatever.

Cartoon rules may apply here (especially #1), so don't think about it. Look forward to the recoil as a rite of passage into manhood and thus something to be relished, not eschewed.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old December 24th, 2006
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Default Re: 2A Enfield

Mine I think came from AIM - maybe 3 years ago now. Did nothing to pretty it up, apart from cosmo removal. Headspace checked out OK.

All I did do was fit a scope, tho as of now it does not shoot that tight of a group.


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