Gun Lubrication...

[XD45]

Right now I just use rem oil, which seems to do fine for alot of stuff, but i notice from the factory alot of the springs have a really thick grease and i was wondering if anyone had any recommendations on what to use, or is rem oil good enough?

[Montanya]

I just use the liquid oil in the orange bottles from hoppes. I think over the last several years I have bought enough of the cleaning kits that I have about 6 of these bottles of oil and no.9 floating around the house

[ar15jules]

I mostly use rem oil. The ar gets grease in places. Hunting rifles get a synthetic during the season to keep them from freezing, but the rest of the year, they get rem oil.
Jules

[XD45]

what kind of grease do u use

[ar15jules]

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...517&t=11082005

The syringe is handy. I only use it on pins.
Jules

[rich]

Rite now I use this stuff from Sentry Solutions. The Tuf-Glide oil dries to the touch in about 2 hours depending on the temp and does not attract dust or dirt. The Smooth-Kote bore treatment makes clean up after the range easy and the Hi-Slip grease seems to stay put where you put it and dose not run off when heated due to firing. I like to have 1 set of clean and lube to use on all my guns and this seems to do it.
http://www.sentrysolutions.com/AllProductskew.shtml

[Lycanthrope]

I ran some Falax bearing tests with remoil and it's very, very poor under pressure (basically, you add weight to an armature that rides on a spinning and lubed bearing until it begiuns to wear/gall/seize). It is, however, a great light lube and prevents rust in tight spots.

I never use grease at all. Just FP-10 on about everything.

Lycanfp10isthebestbesideskerosenebasedlubesthrope

[Agent Ronin]

For what its worth, i only have 2 kinds of gun lube in my house. CLP, and Tetra-Grease.

CLP does the job for just about everything, and the Tetra Grease is just amazing for my Garand and M1A. I actually started using it to lube the bolt on my SKS's and I am very impressed.

[Frenchy]

I was raised to clean a gun with very little oil on it, then remove what ever I could find before shooting. The reasoning is oil may be great for storing a gun, but it also attracts the dirt and helps the “weld” factor of lead.

As many of you know, oil on breaks will cause them to stick, this is also true of hot oil on a very hot piece of steel and oil. Any carbon that meets the oil and lead will almost instantly weld its self to it, in Carbon based pistols, (plastics) the oil is just like on break pads.

Of all the guns I have, the only one I oil very lightly is the Sigma and then only on the slide and riders. The .22s and the .357 are as dry as I can keep them (both SS)
The 12 gauge and 20 are also very dry, once in a while I will wipe an oily rag up and down the barrel. The carbine I plan on oiling only the slide top.
Although it is not such a factor here, where I come from (land of the -40 weather) oil can actually freeze up a gun to the point of rendering it useless.
Those who shot the .357 at the last shoot had a gun with close to if not exceeding 1K in it since the last full clean, the 12 gauge, is just closing in on its 3rd box of 250
And the .22 mainly just meets up with a brush from time to time.

Many may not realize this, but lead is a lubricant. Leadloy and leadbrass both are often used as dry bearings. Where as carbon is used as a cutting agent, think grinding wheels and lapping materials. Oil when heated to the right temps turns into a carbon, add to this the Carbon and dirt from firing many bullets and the heat, you have a perfect grinding agent.

Just my .02 cents on the subject

[Lycanthrope]

Which is why you use lube that can handle high pressure. That's why motorcycle oil is formulated differently than regular motor oil and why gun oil need to be specialized as well. Very little of it is, though........

Most of the time a decent synthetic motor oil can handle pressure better than gun lube. (or Break Free CLP....which is only one CLP...not the only of that type).

Don't worry weather the lube is cloudy, gummy or whatever...it only matters if it continues to protect from galling.

Just get a bearing a spin it on a drill press or whatever and try to gall it with different tyoes of lubes....you'll be surprised.