Decided to Build an AR. Need help!

[Slim Pickens]

Howdy, Y'all. I posted a thread a couple of days ago seeking advice on a new rifle...AK or AR? I decided to buy an AK for now and pick up an AR later...until I did an exhaustive search for AKs on the market and realized that an AK, no matter how well built, is still an AK</epiphany>

So, I've decided to go with the AR, because that's really what I wanted to begin with. Nod to Lycanthanksforplantingtheseedthrope.

I don't want to buy one off the shelf, I want to build one from scratch. I've never done this before and I'm hoping you guys can give me some help. So here goes....

I need recommendations on barrels, trigger components, instruction books/videos, and every other part you can think of. I'm thinking about going with a Stag lower, any input?

Thanks again,

Slim

[MarcS]

Don't piece it together with various parts from different companies. That's just a recipe for poor reliability. I, for instance, built mine on all RRA parts (stag is made in the same machine shop).

[Lycanthrope]

Most of my builds are on Stag or RRA lowers because they fit tightly to most any upper and the gun doesn't rattle. Mine have all been perfect, but I did help build for a friend recently where a Stag lower had a detent hole drilled too shallow. A little honing fixed it right up, but it may have confounded a new guy.

Arfcom has a step by step section on building your own and I've taken pictures of every step along the way as well.

http://ar15.com/forums/forum.html?b=3&f=4

To build the upper, you'll need an action block (and preferably a vice to hold it), a large strap wrench (for any tube style free float handguards...ignore if you aren't going that way) and some peel or crush washers if you want a brake or flash suppressor. A set of headspace gauges are nice, but not necessary if you're buying everything new.

For the lower, you need some punches (roll pin punches are best), some electrical tape (to protect the finish while you are using your punches) and a razor blade (to help put the front pivot pin/takedown detent pin (which will fly across the room if you miss so do it in a closet or something!)

What "parts" really depends on your application and accuracy expectations.


Lycanoncallthrope

[Slim Pickens]

Thanks, again. I'm not looking for match shooting accuracy, but I would like the rifle to be fairly accurate. It doesn't look like I need that many tools, and the instructions you posted on ARFCOM appear to be fairly easy to follow. Now, on to the fun part.

I guess I'll start with buying a lower. Any reasons that you can think of that I should pass on the 6.8mm upper? I was also considering an RRA two-stage trigger, any pros or cons on that one?

Thanks,

Slim

[Karys]

Originally Posted by Slim Pickens

...I guess I'll start with buying a lower. Any reasons that you can think of that I should pass on the 6.8mm upper? I was also considering an RRA two-stage trigger, any pros or cons on that one?

Thanks,

Slim

My only gripe about the 6.8mm is ammo availability. I don't think it has caught on as a caliber yet and how successful it will be is still up in the air. You may want to stick to a 5.56 for your first build.

After building two AR's with RRA lower kits and two stage NM triggers, I won't use anything else in any more builds.

I haven't had any problems using Stag lowers and I would buy one again for my next build.

[Slim Pickens]

Excellent info. Thanks! I'm going to move forward with the Stag lower and RRA kit with the two stage trigger.

That was my general impression regarding the 6.8mm, but the heavier round is attractive. The guy on Futureweapons last night (I know, I know) was firing a Barrett 6.8mm and getting impressive knockdown on the targets he was shooting. I think you're right though, I'll stick with the 5.56mm for now.

[Lycanthrope]

The 5.56 is enough to shoot to 600 yards.....just as the CMP shooters.

As for the RRA two stage triggers, I'd buy one from John at White Oak Precision.

http://www.whiteoakprecision.com/pricing-products.htm

For just a shade more John will make sure the trigger is reliable and crisp. His trigger usually have a combined weight of 4.5lbs, but call and tell him if you want lighter. His RRA triggers are all teh shizzit in Service Rifle.

Accuracy is almost all in the barrel of an AR. I've never seen one that didn't print consistent sub MOA groups with a decent barrel and free floated.

[Slim Pickens]

Any recommendations on heavy or light barrels? I was thinking about going with the 16" heavy barrel.

I'm also planning on ordering the lower from Seneca Arms, but with John being away, it's killing me to wait 5 more days. Sigh....

Thanks,

Slim

[C4iGrant]

One of the issues with building your own is that you need certain tools to do the job correctly. The cost of these tools is not a lot, but if you are only ever going to build one or two AR's it really isn't worth it IMHO.

Since your not going for precision, I would not get a heavy (HBAR) barrel. Get something that is light and easy to move around with. This will allow you to use it in 3 gun comps or use in a training class.

For a simple, cheap barrel, Stag Arms are pretty good and are chrome lined. They tend to run in the lower $200 range.

I stock just about every small part, piece and item for the AR (as I build everything from scratch). Let me know if I can help with anything or if you have any questions.


C4

[Lycanthrope]

Originally Posted by Slim Pickens

Any recommendations on heavy or light barrels? I was thinking about going with the 16" heavy barrel.

I'm also planning on ordering the lower from Seneca Arms, but with John being away, it's killing me to wait 5 more days. Sigh....

Thanks,

Slim

It's a matter of balance preference.

I have a pencil barrel on my plinker/beater and a heavy barrel on my 3 gun rifles because they tend to handle heat better. I use carbon fiber handguard to offset the weight. Most people prefer the 16", but I shoot better offhand with the 18"'s and 20"s. I see no real loss of swing speed from the longer barrels outside of a couple yards. The easiest way is to handle a couple at your local shop and then buy what feels right/balances best.