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Old July 3rd, 2009, 10:42 AM
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Default Building a tack driver 10/22 - parts?

I want to buy the cheapest base model 10/22 possible, and then build it up into a tack driver.

What would you guys recommend for barrel, trigger, stock, and scope?
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Old July 3rd, 2009, 10:50 AM
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Default Re: Building a tack driver 10/22 - parts?

I strongly suggest you head over to http://www.rimfirecentral.com . They will be more than happy to help you spend as much as you can afford in building your 10/22.

Check out this section of their forums: http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...splay.php?f=13

Enjoy!
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Old July 3rd, 2009, 11:24 AM
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Default Re: Building a tack driver 10/22 - parts?

My Tack-Driving 10/22

KIDD trigger and barrel. Glass-bedded Bell & Carlson stock with Volquartsen pillar. Randy at CPC headspaced the bolt, radiused the rear where it cocks the hammer, and put in a firing pin stop. Power Custom "bridge" scope mount. Scope is a discontinued Japanese Simmons 8-32x.

I turned in scores that rivaled custom built rimfire benchrest rifles with this. It seems to outshoot my Remington 40-XRBR from the Remington Custom Shop by a hair, although I think maybe it's because I get to spend more of the 25 minutes aiming and shooting, and less time single feeding rounds into the chamber.
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Old July 3rd, 2009, 11:53 AM
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Default Re: Building a tack driver 10/22 - parts?

You CAN build one from scratch. Volquartsen has receiver clones and everything else you need. Expect to spend around $650 total. I have over six in mine.

Original Ruger receiver, Volquartsen/Boyd's stock and everything else Volquartsen. I shoot a 8 - 24 power BSA mildot @ 24 power and can do a 1/4" hole all day long @ bench 25 yds using Wolf Match ammo.


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Old July 3rd, 2009, 11:57 AM
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Default Re: Building a tack driver 10/22 - parts?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmiro View Post
rimfire will help you spend your money. someone correct me if I am wrong, but cant you almost build one from scratch?
Someone was selling 80% receivers. You kind of need a milling machine to complete them, but a few have finished them with just a drill press.

Brownells has a couple different receivers listed, but I think they cost almost what a complete carbine would run by the time you add shipping and FFL transfer fees.
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Old July 3rd, 2009, 06:27 PM
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Default Re: Building a tack driver 10/22 - parts?

Before you spend any $$$ on your 10/22 at least have a talk with these guys:

http://www.ct-precision.com/

Here's what they do:

Quote:
10/22 Gunsmith Notes: Ruger 10/22 barrels are cut with a standard SAAMI .22 reamer which cuts .062" too deep. Production speed machine reaming often leaves burrs in throat and chambers not concentric to bore. Aftermarket barrels have tighter, shorter chambers (sometimes too tight) than the SAAMI print but seldom short or concentric enough for maximum accuracy.

CPC designs its own reamers for the 10/22 called CPC Freebore chamber for ideal function and accuracy. Setback is .187" to .250" on breech end. The newly cut area on barrel shank is oversize for a 'line to line' tight fit into the receiver stabilizing the two parts. A steel spacer is cut and hand fit into the barrel lockdown cut to insure proper retightening. CPC fits a reamer pilot to the exact bore size and re-reams each barrel by hand. New chamber throat and crowns are cut concentric to bore within .0002".

Customer results at 50 yards: .25 to .56".


RUGER 10/22 FULL TUNE-UP LR, includes 3 items:

TRIGGER JOB
2.0 - 2.4 lb trigger pull
Trigger and hammer side shims
Trigger overtravel screw
Forward anti-creep/slack screw
Auto-bolt release conversion
Single stage pull reworked to be as crisp as possible
Oversize receiver pins installed to tighten trigger group
Extended magazine release installed
BARREL SETBACK & CROWN
CPC will accurize aftermarket barrels, bull or sporter. Examples - Clark, Midway, A&B, Butler Creek, Houge, Shilen, Ruger T, Green Mountain, Kimber, Whistle Pig, etc, (.22 L.R. or .17 HM2). Stainless or Blue
Ends of blued barrels are re-cold blued
Setback breech end by .187 to .250". Shorten chamber, recut barrel shank oversize to fit receiver hole perfectly
CPC semi-auto match freebore chamber reams until a Winchester Power Point, Eley, or CCI bullet lightly sticks. These are used as gauges since all .22 L.R.s will work except some longer .22 Hyper-velocity's.
Chamber polish
Recut extractor groove
Fit new spacer into barrel's lock cut
Cut new 11 recessed target crown
Stone slide area in receiver
Recut and square .920 dia. c'bore on receiver face
BOLT COMBO (see 10/22 Bolt Work for more details and pictures)
Bolt is totally disassembled, cleaned, deburred
Bolt face is surface ground and squared to .0425" LR rim headspace depth; same as bolt action rifle for accuracy and reduced flyers
Bolt side is beautifully prism jeweled
A hole is E.D.M.'ed and a stainless dowel pin pressed in over the front of the firing pin to hold it from raising up, reducing flyers and to get more consistent firing pin strikes.
They do top notch work. They used the factory barrel on my 10/22, worked their magic and it shoots 1 moa consistently but looks plain vanilla.

You'll find the phone # and all the other info at the website.
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Old July 3rd, 2009, 06:36 PM
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Default Re: Building a tack driver 10/22 - parts?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brick View Post
Before you spend any $$$ on your 10/22 at least have a talk with these guys:

http://www.ct-precision.com/

Here's what they do:



They do top notch work. They used the factory barrel on my 10/22, worked their magic and it shoots 1 moa consistently but looks plain vanilla.

You'll find the phone # and all the other info at the website.
Thanks for the info. From the looks of it, I have to already have an aftermarket barrel on the gun. Am I reading that right?
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Old July 3rd, 2009, 06:59 PM
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Default Re: Building a tack driver 10/22 - parts?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BerksCountyDave View Post
Thanks for the info. From the looks of it, I have to already have an aftermarket barrel on the gun. Am I reading that right?
They did the work on mine several years ago, and like I said they used the stock barrel. I am not sure if they still do that or not, check out the website, get the phone# and give them a call.
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