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Old March 29th, 2009, 08:29 AM
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Default Slide is jammed on my 1911...

I decided to field strip my Springfield for the first time this morning. I got it apart with some effort - the spring on that thing is heavy and the gun is well oiled. When I tried to put it back together I got everything lined up and when I tried to push the slide pin back in place it went mostly in and then stopped about an 1/8" from flush. I tried to readjust the slide but it moved forward only slightly and after that I couldn't move the slide at all. I tired to pull the pin out, but the slide is forward enough that it's blocking the slide release. It's really stuck - I cannot move the slide at all.

Not sure what to do at this point that doesn't involve possibly damaging the finish or the gun. Anyone have any ideas?
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Old March 29th, 2009, 08:49 AM
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Default Re: Slide is jammed on my 1911...

Does the pin go all the way through the frame? That is, a hole on both sides of the frame?
If so, take a pin punch and lightly tap the pin out. If no hole, you'll need a screw driver to pry the pin out. I hope you can tap it, since prying may mar the gun's finish.
It's been years since I stripped down a 1911, but I'm pretty sure there's a pivoting link at the end of the barrel that the pin should go through. If the link isn't positioned properly, the slide take down pin can wedge against it.
Like I wrote...it's been years so I may be 100% off base.

If you have a manual for this gun, it should have instructions for take down. It may also have a parts illustration to help you.

Watch this video. About through, you'll see the pivoting link when he removes the barrel from the slide. The slide release pin is probably jammed against it, rather then through the link's hole.

I had a similar problem with a Kahr MK9 a few years ago.

Good luck!

Last edited by RoyJackson; March 29th, 2009 at 08:55 AM.
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Old March 29th, 2009, 12:49 PM
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Default Re: Slide is jammed on my 1911...

As the owner of a Colt 1911 Government and Commander model I would suggest not tapping or prying on any part. If you have to do that, you will most certainly scratch some part of the gun. I am guessing that your slide stop plunger is interfering with the slide stop. The slide stop has a small detent that caught on mine when I was doing the same thing as you. I struggled with and finally got it fixed - after I scratched the frame. What I do now when reassembling the pistol is to keep either a dental pick handy and gently pull the slide stop plunger back into the tube and that allows the slide stop to seat all the way. Be careful because the dental pick will certainly do a number on your pistol's finish. Some folks use a small sharp plastic piece to move that plunger out of the way.

Gary

http://www.m1911.org/stripin1.htm
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Old March 29th, 2009, 01:29 PM
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Default Re: Slide is jammed on my 1911...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronin View Post
I decided to field strip my Springfield for the first time this morning. I got it apart with some effort - the spring on that thing is heavy and the gun is well oiled. When I tried to put it back together I got everything lined up and when I tried to push the slide pin back in place it went mostly in and then stopped about an 1/8" from flush. I tried to readjust the slide but it moved forward only slightly and after that I couldn't move the slide at all. I tired to pull the pin out, but the slide is forward enough that it's blocking the slide release. It's really stuck - I cannot move the slide at all.

Not sure what to do at this point that doesn't involve possibly damaging the finish or the gun. Anyone have any ideas?
Just reverse the order of what you did to get it to seize up.

Tap the muzzle of the slide back, then remove the take down pin. This isn't plunger tube related.
I'm pretty sure Roy is right, sounds like you missed the link...

edit: looks like I was wrong. don't understand how the plunger tube can lock the slide up though..

Last edited by synergy; April 5th, 2009 at 10:06 PM.
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Old March 29th, 2009, 06:37 PM
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Default Re: Slide is jammed on my 1911...

If you cant get it out, PM me with your # and we can meet up mon evening.
Peter.
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Old March 30th, 2009, 06:49 PM
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Default Re: Slide is jammed on my 1911...

Thanks for the suggestion guys. I haven't had time since yesterday to try knocking the pin out. I've got certs to get for work so I'm up to my ears with studying. Thankfully it's not my main gun, so it can wait for a little while. Hopefully I'll get a chance sometime this week. When I do I'll report back.
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Old April 5th, 2009, 06:49 PM
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Default Re: Slide is jammed on my 1911...

Well, I got my Springfield working again. I used a punch wrapped with tape, laid it on some books and gently tapped the pin out until it was free of the plunger on the other side. When I tried to put it back together again I ran into the same problem. I didn't miss the link, the plunger is incredibly tight and will not compress without being coaxed. Once I got it past the plunger, everything fell into place.

I took it to the range this afternoon and put a box through it. It runs pretty well, though it could use a good tune-up. The trigger is not crisp and the front strap needs to be checkered. Just need to find a good 1911 smith.

Thanks to everyone for their help and suggestions. I really appreciate it.
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Old April 5th, 2009, 08:43 PM
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Default Re: Slide is jammed on my 1911...

Trigger has creep or is just too heavy?


Not hard to fix.


Lycanpmmethrope
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Old April 5th, 2009, 10:04 PM
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Default Re: Slide is jammed on my 1911...

No creep, just way too heavy.

I don't know the first thing about gunsmithing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lycanthrope View Post
Trigger has creep or is just too heavy?


Not hard to fix.


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Old April 6th, 2009, 10:44 AM
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Default Re: Slide is jammed on my 1911...

Well you can take the middle leaf of the sear spring down to 12oz without risk if the trigger moves smoothly. Go too far on that leaf and the worst that will happen is the trigger won't reset. 12oz is very conservative and most guns will run on 8oz.

The left leaf (looking at the installed spring from behind the gun) is the sear spring and that's the one you don't want to touch. Too far on that one and it will start to double or just go auto.

The next step is a simple mainspring change, but no need to go there if you don't have to.

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