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Old April 18th, 2010, 10:25 PM
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Default crimping your 9mm?

hey guys almost ready to reload my first set of 9mm rounds. Final question (maybe), in my reloading book it said NEVER crimp 9mm rounds. However I saw online (youtube reloading video) that some do crimp their 9mm rounds. My question is, is it better to not crimp and follow the book or does crimping provide something more sufficient that the book does not discuss. I will be shooting these reloads out of my glock 19 as well in case that plays any special part in it. Thanks in advance
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Old April 19th, 2010, 04:44 AM
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Default Re: crimping your 9mm?

The word "crimp" for rounds that require a taper crimp, kinda throws a person new to reloading off a bit... You're not really "crimping" the brass into the bullet, you are simply removing the flare you put on the brass in an earlier step. If you flared, or belled the case to allow for easier starting of the bullet into the case, the "crimp" stage is returning the case back to where it started. The 9mm brass seats in the chamber of a firearm on the leading edge of the brass. That is why you want to return it from being flared out.

Get a cartridge OAL case gauge from L E Wilson, or Dillon. After you complete reloading your rounds, drop them in the case gauge. That will tell you if you have removed enough flare, or if you have "crimped" (taper crimped) it enough.

Ask plenty of questions and don't feel funny asking. It's the best way to learn.
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Old April 19th, 2010, 06:56 AM
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Default Re: crimping your 9mm?

LTC is exactly right, but allow me to clarify/differentiate. When the term "crimp" is used in reloading, it can refer to two different types of crimping. As pointed out, a taper crimp is used on cartridges that are supposed to headspace on the mouth of the cartridge (where the bullet enters the case). As LTC said, a taper crimp removes the "belling" and actually swages the case against the bullet, while still allowing a clearly defined case mouth upon which to headspace.

The crimp that your manual was warning against would be a roll-crimp. A roll-crimp is used on cartridges that are rimmed (headspace on the rim rather than the mouth), so a sharply defined case mouth isn't critical. You generally roll-crimp revolver cartridges. The case mouth is actually rolled into the bullet cannelure or crimp groove. This prevents bullet set-back during recoil and allows for better powder combustion.

You want to taper-crimp your 9mm cartridges. You also want to insure that the actual case length does not exceed the max allowed. In point of fact, most rimless cartridges that theoretically headspace on the case mouth, actually headspace on the extractor, so case length isn't all that critical as long as the max isn't exceeded.

HTH. Good luck.

Adios,

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Old April 19th, 2010, 07:35 AM
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Default Re: crimping your 9mm?

Pizza Bob and L T C both covered everything very well. A suggestion though is to get a Lee Factory Crimp Die. They crimp using a collet, which prevents most over-crimping; it is still important for case life to properly adjust the Lee FCD. Furthermore, if you're going to be shooting your 9mms out of a Glock, you will most likely run into problems because of its unsupported chamber. This results in the 'Glock bulge.' The Lee FCD also gets rid of the bulge when adjusted properly. I use Lee FCDs in every caliber that I reload (except .500 mag, but they don't make them for that caliber).
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Old April 19th, 2010, 01:47 PM
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Default Re: crimping your 9mm?

Quote:
Originally Posted by max384 View Post
Pizza Bob and L T C both covered everything very well. A suggestion though is to get a Lee Factory Crimp Die. They crimp using a collet, which prevents most over-crimping; it is still important for case life to properly adjust the Lee FCD. Furthermore, if you're going to be shooting your 9mms out of a Glock, you will most likely run into problems because of its unsupported chamber. This results in the 'Glock bulge.' The Lee FCD also gets rid of the bulge when adjusted properly. I use Lee FCDs in every caliber that I reload (except .500 mag, but they don't make them for that caliber).
What he said. The lee FCD is awesome. If you want to know if you really need it, either get a case gauge or remove the barrel from your gun and see if a finished round just drops in the chamber. My friend gave me some reloads that were not run through a FCD and they jammed my gun tight due to the case bulge. I only shoot a Glock and I've had no issues at all using this die. Well worth the money.
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Old April 19th, 2010, 03:03 PM
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Default Re: crimping your 9mm?

also be very careful about your seating depth, a over pressure situation can happen very quickly if you seat too deep.

Andy
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Old April 19th, 2010, 07:45 PM
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Default Re: crimping your 9mm?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pizza Bob View Post
LTC is exactly right, but allow me to clarify/differentiate. When the term "crimp" is used in reloading, it can refer to two different types of crimping. As pointed out, a taper crimp is used on cartridges that are supposed to headspace on the mouth of the cartridge (where the bullet enters the case). As LTC said, a taper crimp removes the "belling" and actually swages the case against the bullet, while still allowing a clearly defined case mouth upon which to headspace.

The crimp that your manual was warning against would be a roll-crimp. A roll-crimp is used on cartridges that are rimmed (headspace on the rim rather than the mouth), so a sharply defined case mouth isn't critical. You generally roll-crimp revolver cartridges. The case mouth is actually rolled into the bullet cannelure or crimp groove. This prevents bullet set-back during recoil and allows for better powder combustion.

You want to taper-crimp your 9mm cartridges. You also want to insure that the actual case length does not exceed the max allowed. In point of fact, most rimless cartridges that theoretically headspace on the case mouth, actually headspace on the extractor, so case length isn't all that critical as long as the max isn't exceeded.

HTH. Good luck.

Adios,

Pizza Bob

That is the most clear and concise explanation I've ever read on this. I don't reload, but thanks.
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Old April 19th, 2010, 08:23 PM
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Default Re: crimping your 9mm?

thanks so much guys, you have no idea how much this helps.

DOES THE LEE FCD COME WITH THE LEE 3 DIE SET DELUXE OR DO I NEED TO BUY IT SEPERATELY?


ALSO DO I SEAT THE BULLET AND THEN FINALLY CRIMP IT WITH THE LEE FCD TO FINISH IT OFF? I AM SHOOTING ONLY OUT OF A GLOCK SO AND I HEAR RELOADS ARE FINICKY SO I WANT TO MAKE SURE MY 9MM AMMO IS RIGHT AND WILL SHOOT OUT OF MY GLOCK...AND MOST IMPORTANTLY NOT BLOW IT UP

Last edited by c_brutsche; April 19th, 2010 at 08:30 PM.
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Old April 19th, 2010, 08:48 PM
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Default Re: crimping your 9mm?

Quote:
Originally Posted by c_brutsche View Post
thanks so much guys, you have no idea how much this helps.

DOES THE LEE FCD COME WITH THE LEE 3 DIE SET DELUXE OR DO I NEED TO BUY IT SEPERATELY?


ALSO DO I SEAT THE BULLET AND THEN FINALLY CRIMP IT WITH THE LEE FCD TO FINISH IT OFF? I AM SHOOTING ONLY OUT OF A GLOCK SO AND I HEAR RELOADS ARE FINICKY SO I WANT TO MAKE SURE MY 9MM AMMO IS RIGHT AND WILL SHOOT OUT OF MY GLOCK...AND MOST IMPORTANTLY NOT BLOW IT UP
The Lee 3 die set does NOT include the FCD. The Lee Deluxe Carbide 4-Die Set includes the FCD die.

When using the FCD, set your seating die back far enough so it does not crimp while seating. Then in the next step, use the FCD to crimp/resize the base of the case.

Reloads from a glock aren't finicky, per se. The glock with factory barrel produces a bulge in the spent casings. When resizing, traditional dies often do not completely remove this bulge. This can cause the completed round not to fit in the chamber properly. The Lee FCD eliminates the bulge left over from the FL sizing die.
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Old April 19th, 2010, 09:47 PM
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Default Re: crimping your 9mm?

A crimp/tight grip on the bullet also creates a high(er) pressure situation. Some powders like this and burn cleaner. It's a balance between good, not enough, too much.
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