.223 - Neck or full length sizing, and to crimp or not to crimp?

[BerksCountyDave]

As I continue to do my research before beginning reloading .223 for use in my AR, I have two questions I hope you guys can shed some light on:

1. Should I use a neck sizing or full length sizing die?

2. Should I use a crimp die or just stop the process after the bullet seating die?

[Lycanthrope]

For autoloaders, you need full length die. Stay away from "small base" dies unless you like stuck cases.

I do use a Lee FCD on .223, but I do not crimp into the bullet (and most of my bullets do not have a cannelure). If you aren't getting setback from chambering, you're ok.

Lycanneedstoloadsomethrope

[Kaos]

Originally Posted by Lycanthrope

Lycanneedstoloadsomethrope

That's what she said.

[knight0334]

unless its brass from factory loaded ammo that you fired in THAT gun, you must full length size it.

Like Lycanthrope said though, with autoloaders you should full length size them anyways. Other firearm you dont have to for brass that has already been fired in the gun you intend to shoot the reloads in - for those neck sizing works.

[SteveWag]

If I am loading for only one chamber, and it’s an autoloader, I set the die using a case headspace gauge and only set the shoulder back 0.001”. I measure the length from the case head to the datum line using the fired case, and lower the sizing die until the case sets back 0.001”
See these:

http://www.gswagner.com/bigreloading...g/casemic.html

http://www272.pair.com/stevewag/head...headspace.html

Steve

[Koli01]

Originally Posted by Lycanthrope

For autoloaders, you need full length die. Stay away from "small base" dies unless you like stuck cases.

I do use a Lee FCD on .223, but I do not crimp into the bullet (and most of my bullets do not have a cannelure). If you aren't getting setback from chambering, you're ok.

Lycanneedstoloadsomethrope

Lee FCD = Lee Factory Crimp Die

just sayin

[Pete D.]

I always start with new brass in my AR-15. I load them as they are right out of the case. For the second and third firings, I neck size. I use a carbide expander and don't lube the case necks.
I do this because it is less work and I am a lazy reloader. Groups are moa or better. I have never had ftf doing this.
After the third firing, I FL size the cases.
And...I shoot Sierra 77 gr. HPBT Matchkings pretty much exclusively, no crimp.

[billt]

If you are loading .223/5.56 MM for any autoloader you should use a Small Base Resizing Die and full length resize all of your brass until the shell holder touches the bottom of the sizing die on the upstroke of the press. If you properly lube your cases you won't stick a case. I've reloaded tens of thousands of rounds with small base dies and have never stuck a case. Remember to lube the inside of the case neck as well. Small base resizing dies were manufactured specifically for resizing cases that are intended for use in autoloading rifles. For crimping I am a firm believer in the Lee Factory Crimp Die. It provides a superior crimp with far better holding power than the roll crimp that most all bullet seating dies provide. The reason is the Lee die does not apply any longitudinal stress to the case itself. Rather it applies lateral pressure only to the case and bullet to crimp it. It gets the force from the top of the shell holder touching the die, not the case itself. It is the reason it is all but impossible to buckle a case with it. I use a Q-Tip with standard case lube to lubricate the inside of the case neck, then tumble the cases afterward so as to remove all of the case lube from the inside of the case, and thereby eliminate any source of powder contamination from it. Bill T.